FI light

cliff

Registered User
#1
Having probs with F1 light coming on. Sorted it flashing when indicating: loose connection on rear n/s indicator. It comes on permanently when the headlight is switched on and goes off when headlight switched off. Do I need to trace a fault in the headlight wiring eg poor earth etc or should I clean up the harness connections or something else? Cheers
 

PAD

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#2
800Fi, I take it? I would start with checking out the ‘BOC’ (Big Orange Connector), which is a junction block for numerous earth wires that is taped into the wiring loom ahead of the regulator/rectifier. Have a look HERE. I found it to be the source of several ills on my FiY, despite it appearing to be in as new condition - my experience is largely documented in THIS thread.
 

cliff

Registered User
#3
Thanks for prompt reply PAD. Yes its a 2001 FIY Will give cleaning the BOC connectors a go. Much appreciated. Will report back!
 

PAD

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#4
Have a good read of the various aspects - the connector may look perfect, as mine did, but firm pressure on the busbars told a different story and bending their tangs inward to improve contacts sorted it out for me to date. Others have had to cut out the whole thing and remake the connections with soldered joints... etc.
 

50th VFR

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#5
One option is to solder all the connections in the BOC but they need to be reasonably corrosion free to achieve a good "wet" solder joint.
 

cliff

Registered User
#7
A big thank you to PAD. I Opened up the orange/red earth box and initially sprayed the connectors with contact cleaner. Switched on, light gone. went for a ride no FI light. Premature hooray: light came back on after 10 miles. Opened up the connector box again. Lightly rubbed the prongs with fine sand paper. Liberal dose of contact cleaner. Went for ride today: no F1 light. So fingers crossed. reckon I will open the connector once a year and give it a spray.

I love these forums for the collective wisdom they contain.

By the way I am a newbie to the forum and to VFR's. Always fancied one but low bars a no-no as I broke wrists and too painful. I saw a beauty advertised with high bars and loads of sensible mods (Nitron shock, HEL silicone hoses, braided brake lines, gel seat, and loads more. I love it and it handles and steers great.

Question: will I be ostracised for having a high bar VFR/ If not does anyone want to see some pics?

Also brakes have been de-linked. Good? Bad? Indifferent?

Cheers
 

PAD

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#10
Yes, absolutely. That’s what I did... Or maybe I bent them inwards a bit, thinking about it, but much the same effect either way. Definitely worth it.
 

advancing age

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#11
or you could put your left leg in, your left leg out, then shake it all about.....???? :)

Amazing what 2 pints of Hobgoblin and a good curry can do........ :couch:
 

cliff

Registered User
#12
At PAD's request I attach some photos of my FIY. I saw this on e bay last September and it was local so I had a look and decided to bid. My mate has always raved about his 750 'best bike ever made...' etc. but I cant use low bars due to busted wrist. I got the bike for £1900 and it had just had a load of bits done in preparation for a long tour that didn't happen, Its got the following;
Replacement reg/rec (cost 66 quid so likely a proper one?)
All silicone coolant hoses
New thermostat and seal
New fork seals and oil
New steering head bearings
Brakes de-linked (Why?)
Stainless braided brake and clutch lines
Bar risers and high bar kit (longer throttle cables
Volt meter
Ancillary sockets
New swing arm bushes
Bar end mirrors ( found out why - high bars block view from originals)
New seat cover/gel insert
Wheels powder coated grey
Front wheel bearings replaced
New Road 4 tyres
Shorty levers
Front brake pads
Fluids all done
All done less than 1000 miles ago

Plus its got a Nitron shock
SS exhaust
Scorpion end can
Hugger
Rad guard

Its done 34000 and I have a service history. Bought it from a really genuine mature biker and paid 1900. Love the bike. planning Scottish tour in May (Beef Tub).

IMG_1388.jpeg IMG_1294.jpeg IMG_1667.jpg IMG_1666.jpg
 

Attachments

pete0034

Ground Hog Day
Site Sponsor
#13
Hi Cliff
Very neat tidy machine,can i ask how did you manage to get rear wheel nuts,so shiny ? . Just bought 4 new nuts from David silver,but hate to give them a good polish in-case they rust at the dome like the old ones
 

Dickiebird

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#16
Hi Cliff
Very neat tidy machine,can i ask how did you manage to get rear wheel nuts,so shiny ? . Just bought 4 new nuts from David silver,but hate to give them a good polish in-case they rust at the dome like the old ones
They are probably aftermarket covers on the nuts. I've just fitted some to mine and then I thought they look rather a close fit. No chance of getting a socket in there which would probably crush them anyway, but they can be removed by inserting a flat blade screwdriver down each side and "walking" them out. You also get a nice shiny plug for the drive side of the s/arm too .
 

PAD

Registered User
Site Sponsor
#17
Tidy!

Why de-link the brakes? I don’t think there is a good reason to be honest, the system works well, but in the odd instance it could be that there’s no choice. Some do it because they don’t ‘trust’ the brakes being linked. Some because the system is a bugger to bleed properly, some because other mods dictate it (hence no choice)...etc. Ultimately, it’s up to the individual of course, but two things... It’s not just a matter of disconnecting front from back - doing so without changes to master cylinders etc is iffy. And, once done, an insurer might not be too keen on it and either refuse insurance or increase the premium... And if the mod. isn’t declared then there could be problems in the event of an incident!
 
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