Corsa drivers paddling pool

advancing age

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#1
So ..... Marks152 .....you veered into this on Rawhide’s Corsa woes....

Son’s 55 plate 3pot has some of the rattles, so very useful info on that front.

Meanwhile absolutely soaking wet carpet drivers side, and local garage spent a lot of time and money achieving very little sadly. Will have a go myself....

As far as I could see there is a big bulkhead panel lower down and the servo nearer the scuttle....the usual suspects I guess?

So, you mention removing the steering column....:oops: is that entirely unavoidable or can a passable shot be made with some loosening and copious sealant? I just know that a lot of dismantling will end up with a handful of spare bits, and more rattling than before....

The servo, you appear to have to remove the reservoir from your pics, full drain down or just the res? And anything else to come off?

All hints and observations very welcome, other than sell it!!

Cheers, AA :beer-toast1:l
 

marks152

Registered User
#2
Remove the wiper arms, scuttle panel and trim pieces, remove battery, remove the wiper motor, remove the pollen filter housing, remove the washer bottle, remove the bolts for master cylinder, remove servo vac line. pull the grey pipe off the brake fluid bottle. You will loose some. Unclip brake lines from bulkhead. Now lift the master cylinder off the servo and pull it back over the engine. You do not need to drain the system. Just keep it upright. Use a blank on the end were the grey pipe was to stop fluid loss. No need to bleed brakes or clutch.

Now go inside the car and remove the accelerator pedal. Then remove the pin out of the brake pedal that connects to the servo. Disconnect the spring, undo the 2 servo bolts. Now the servo will pull out.

Once it's out, remove the old bulkhead seal from the engine bay. It's like a semi hard material. Spend time digging it out with a screwdriver/seal pick. Wash and dry the whole area.

Use tigerseal to reapply to the bulkhead plate. Put a smeer on all gromits, bolts and we're cables go through the plate. Make sure we're the servo touches bulkhead plate it smooth and clean. Fit a new gasket on assembly.

This is basically the common issue. Now I came across one that no one I've spoken to so far has seen and that was a leak from the clutch master cylinder seal. It's a foam type. To do this you have to take the steering column out which I wasn't prepared to do so I've used fishtank assembly silicone on the bulkhead side to just cover were it was leaking in. This way if it ever needs removing I can cut the silicone off it. The bulkhead seal was done with tigerseal.

Mine was leaking from the bulkhead seal, servo to bulkhead gasket and the clutch master cylinder seal.

It's now bone dry - well apart from a leak on the waterpump that it developed yesterday. New pump on order.

It's a pretty straight forward job and most of your time will be spent removing the old sealant and cleaning the area.

What exactly have the garage done so far. Did they take all the above out to do it?
 

marks152

Registered User
#3
You will have to reset the brake light switch after assembly or your brake lights will stay on. Just remove the lower panel below steering wheel. Peer through and you will see the switch. Press the brake and hold. Then you will see a red clip. Move this as far forward as you can and using long nose pliers pull the plunger out towards the pedal. You will feel resistance. Once it's pulled out push the red bit back and let go of the pedal. Pump twice. It is now adjusted.

Dont forget to top brake fluid up if required.

Look on YouTube as there's a few guides on the leaky bulkhead plate. The combo c is the same so search for that too.
 

marks152

Registered User
#6
Tell. That to my mate who's spent over £1500 on his santa fe lol. All cars have their common issues - even Korean/jap stuff. Thankfully the Corsa is great diyers car and parts are cheap as chips with plenty of used parts about. A full exhaust from front to back is £70 with gaskets/clamps and 5 year warentee from klarion.

Plus its the only think I could I sure reasonably as I only passed my test and it was my first car.
 

advancing age

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#9
Utterly brilliant Mark - you're a star, as we knew already.

Just need time and not pee-ing down (or clear the car port :BangHead: ) and he can drive other than in sauna conditions...... Thanks v much, AA :beer-toast1:

(forgot to tag the thread or I'd have been back sooner!!!)
 

marks152

Registered User
#10
Another little tip for you. If you remove the lower panelling then get a bit of garden hose. Empty some talc into the hose using a funnel. Position the hose end towards the back of the pedal area/bulkhead plate and give it a good blow into the area. Give it a generous helping of it. Then when it rains follow the stream and it will lead you to the leak.

IMG_20181008_200602.jpg
IMG_20181008_200616.jpg

Here's one I prepared earlier. I used food grade preservative as I had it in work to hand but baby talc works just as well and makes the car smell nice lol.
 

marks152

Registered User
#11
Here's a leaky clutch master cylinder to bulkhead seal - I've not seen another like this so its a odd one. The clutch cylinder or steering column has never been removed

 

marks152

Registered User
#13
You took the plunge yet AA. I'm happy to report mines now leak free. We have had a wet 2 weeks but the powder on the floors nice and dry. Time to refit my carpet now!

I've got a few bits to do for the mot but that's not until Feb so no major rush. I've got 4 new brake pipes made ready to fit plus a steering rack. All should be good for a good few miles then.
 
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