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1987 vfr400 fork questions

Discussion in 'VFR400 / RVF400 Technical Questions & Help' started by dave_c24, Apr 12, 2009.

  1. ratsarse

    ratsarse Registered User

    dunno if this helps anybody but I just welded a 24mm nut to each end of a long threaded rod happy days instant removal tool for fork lol. bummer wish I hadn't got them apart only had time to check them out today nice condition but for the big vice scores where sombody straightened them. lmao? I did it beat crying
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2009
  2. dave_c24

    dave_c24 Registered User

    lol, why didnt i think of that one, i made my own hex head tool at work that fitted in a socket. thank to ian for lending me his one to copy;)

    cheers dave
     
  3. terryvxr8

    terryvxr8 Registered User

    Does anyone know how far from the top you need to fill each fork with oil please as im doing it now and dont want to overfill them, Thanks.

    :d:
     
  4. dave_c24

    dave_c24 Registered User

    With the leg fully compressed and no spring etc it should be 90mm from top. Also dont bother putting air back in them, makes seals fail faster. Hope this helps
     
  5. bikerdazboy

    bikerdazboy Registered User

    hi.....you seem to know your forks, I`ve had my fork seals done by garage less than a year ago and its failed and is leaking again and feel they may have con me and only fitted top oil ring under dust cover, i`ve been in touch with trading standards but would welcome any advice, i just can`t believe that seals will only last an year or two, my only lasted 11 months and low mileage too
     
  6. Ian Daly

    Ian Daly Son of Arthur Club Sponsor

    To be honest that's the only seal there is (on 400s at least) and the only one I'd expect to have changed (along with the dust seal, fluid and oil seal fixing clip). You're unlikely to be able to prove very much at all I'd think, you may well have to put this down to experience:(, get a manual and do it yourself, it's not hard and you save money in the knowledge that it's done properly:cool:

    Ian
     
  7. bikerdazboy

    bikerdazboy Registered User

    mine`s the vtec800, understand what your saying but i`m sure seals should last longer than mine did am going to do repair myself but trying to get some sort of refund from garage ....hate being taken ....if you know what i mean

    Darren
    cheers for your reply
     
  8. Ian Daly

    Ian Daly Son of Arthur Club Sponsor

    Yeah, I understand fully, do you know why the replacement seal failed you don't want to replace just for the failure to reoccur:(

    Ian
     
  9. bikerdazboy

    bikerdazboy Registered User

    when i first contacted the garage he said your prob got stone chip on fork i`ve look ran hand all over it can`t find anything the bike has only done 1900 mile since last m.o.t when seals first went, garage charged me over £200 for the pleasure trouble was i had trip planned for week at `snake pass` so was very short of time last year. been in touh with trading standards and suggested i claim under consumer act 1982 (bad wokman ship) not the way i wanted to go but can`t help thinking if fork had defec garage should have notice when they done the work and i`m sure this isn`t something that sould happen a yearly bases
     
  10. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper Registered User

    To be honest pattern seals are notoriously unreliable, i have fitted loads of them and 90% of the time they work fine but i did some on a goldwing the other week and even though the leg was in good order it leaked straight away, i changed it again for the other one that was in the same pack and it was fine.
    If you want to have a ride up to York one weekend we could do them whilst you wait (so to speak) - it takes about 3 hours to do both legs providing everything comes undone ok
    HTH
    Darren -TG
     
  11. Graemenc24

    Graemenc24 Registered User

    sounds like the garage i went to mate. he claimed to do both fork seals and change oil. they started bottoming out so i did it myself the right fork had black stinking oil in and the left was new. so not only did he not do the right fork he never put enough oil in the one he did do! they think your idiots
     
  12. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper Registered User

    Yea we have a tool like this but ours has a tube welded across the top to turn it with, it's a common thing to do - another good tip is to loosen the bolt in the bottom of the leg a couple of turns before you take the top off the tube as it is still under tension due to the compression of the spring & they nearly always come undone without the need for the long tool down the inside
    HTH - TG
     
  13. Mad machanic

    Mad machanic Registered User

    Hiya i am new here and I have some problems with a set off forks I'm doing in my garage now.
    I have noticed one is longer than the other as I spotted further up the page you said one is longer but shouldn't it line up at the bottom? because mine doesn't :( and I can't get the spindle through straight.
    I'm just wondering if someone previously has been here and got things messed up for me :s. Any help would be great thanks very much.
    Matt.
     
  14. Gatekeeper

    Gatekeeper Registered User

    Both forks are the same length overall, they have to be to allow the wheel to sit square to the Yokes, The left hand side one has an anti-dive system fitted to it that works in association with the brake caliper.
    The internals are different for each leg because of this and i would guess that either you or someone previously has put the anti dive valve unit into the wrong leg - if this is the case the right hand side (viewed from on the bike) will be longer than the left.
    The springs are the same length and should be 710mm overall length and you need 390ml of medium weight fork oil.
    DO NOT inflate them with additional air, all it does is blow the seals easier
    Hope this helps
    Darren - TG
     
  15. Mad machanic

    Mad machanic Registered User

    Thanks for the quick reply which bit is the anti dive unit? i got the forks in bits now and i have noticed all the spring washers are missing. and the bottom parts of the forks (the bits with little springs on) are different lengths and the tubes at the top are different lengths. And definitely someone else has messed this up for me haha im trying to find out how lol.
    Thanks again,
    Matt.
     
  16. Mad machanic

    Mad machanic Registered User

    Also I have just been out to check now and its the left leg (as your sat on the bike) that is the one with the anti dive unit on. But that is the leg that is longer than the right leg and its not just abit it's about 100-150mm taller.
     
  17. Will86

    Will86 Registered User

    NC24 forks

    Hi, I've just done the fork seals on my nc24, and noticed that there is no spacers in the forks at the moment. Free length of the springs is 535mm. Anyone know if this is the normal spring length?

    Just trying to work out if these are aftermarket springs or originals missing spacers...
     
  18. denisd

    denisd Registered User

    Hi Ian, I am at my nc24 forks now and they were assembled wrongly previous, according to the cmsnl fork parts diagram there is a short spring on each mushroom thing, I have 2 and also 2 extra short pieces of piping 25mm dia and 25mm long! I am stumped and can't work this out!:dunno:
     
  19. Ian Daly

    Ian Daly Son of Arthur Club Sponsor

    Crikey fella, it's a long time since I posted that, sorry but despite my razor sharp memory, I can't for the life of me remember, I'll re-read the thread and if there's a spark I'll come back to you, but I would say the CMSNL stuff tends to be pretty damn accurate, good luck.

    Cheers

    Ian
     

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